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31 December 2023
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How Much Does Dirt Work Actually Cost?
If you’ve ever started planning a construction or landscaping project, you’ve probably realized that “dirt work” can mean a lot of different things — and so can the price tag. The truth is, every site and every job is unique. Soil conditions, slope, access, drainage, and the overall scope of work all play a major role in determining final costs.
Below is a general guide to help you get a feel for what different types of dirt work projects typically cost — but the only way to know your true cost is to have a professional take a look.
Common Dirt Work Services and Price Ranges
Water Infiltration Solutions
Managing standing water or drainage problems can range anywhere from $1,500 to $10,000, depending on the cause and complexity. A simple surface drain might be on the low end, while full trenching, French drains, or regrading can push the price higher.
Gravel Driveway Repair & Resurfacing
Fixing or rebuilding a gravel driveway typically falls between $2,000 and $10,000. Costs depend on length, width, gravel depth, and any necessary work like crowning for proper drainage or installing culverts.
Foundation Excavation and Site Prep
Preparing for a new foundation can range from $5,000 to $15,000 or more. Soil type, access for machinery, and the overall size of the foundation all impact the final cost.
Shed Pads – Leveled and Compacted
For smaller structures like sheds or garages, expect between $2,000 and $6,000 for leveling, compacting, and setting a proper base. This ensures your shed stays stable and drains properly.
Retaining Walls
Retaining walls typically run around $35 per square foot, depending on the material (block, rock, or concrete), height, and engineering requirements.
Yard Grading and Prep
If you’re reshaping your yard for landscaping, turf, or drainage improvements, grading work usually runs between $2,500 and $6,000 or more, depending on the size and terrain.
Every Property Is Different
No two sites are the same — and that’s why flat-rate pricing for dirt work rarely tells the whole story. A simple job with easy access and sandy soil might take a day. A steep lot with clay and drainage challenges could take several.
Getting an accurate quote starts with a site visit and a conversation about your goals.
Get a True Estimate
If you’re planning a project that involves excavation, grading, or drainage, give us a call or send us a message. We’ll take a look at your site, discuss your options, and provide a clear, honest estimate for your specific situation.
Let’s make sure your dirt work is done right — the first time.
How to Install a French Drain (Step-by-Step Guide)
If you’re dealing with standing water, soggy lawns, or basement leaks, a French drain can be an effective long-term solution. Installing one isn’t rocket science — but it does require careful planning, the right tools, and an understanding of how water flows through your property. This guide walks you through how to install a French drain the right way, and what to watch out for if you’re considering tackling it yourself.
Step 1: Identify the Problem Area
Start by finding where water is pooling or collecting on your property. Look for low spots, soggy soil, or areas where water runs toward your home or foundation. The goal of a French drain is to redirect that water away to a safer discharge area — such as a ditch, dry well, or storm drain (where permitted).
Take your time on this step. If you don’t fully understand where the water is coming from or where it should go, the system won’t work properly.
Step 2: Plan the Route and Slope
Next, plan the path your drain will follow. A typical French drain should slope downward at about 1 inch per 10 feet of length to allow water to flow naturally by gravity. Use a laser level or string line to make sure your slope is consistent from start to finish.
Mark the route with spray paint or flags. The drain should start in the wet area and end where water can safely discharge without causing erosion or flooding elsewhere.
Step 3: Gather Materials and Tools
Here’s what you’ll need for most residential French drain projects:
- Perforated drain pipe (4-inch corrugated or PVC)
- Drain rock or washed gravel (¾” is common)
- Geotextile filter fabric
- Shovel or trenching equipment
- Level, string line, or laser level
- Wheelbarrow and rake
Depending on the size of your project, you might also need a mini excavator or trenching machine — digging by hand can be extremely labor-intensive, especially in clay or rocky soils.
Step 4: Dig the Trench
Dig a trench about 12 to 24 inches deep and roughly 6 to 12 inches wide along your planned route. Make sure the bottom of the trench maintains that steady downward slope toward your discharge point.
If you’re crossing under driveways or sidewalks, you may need to use a pipe sleeve or directional boring to get through — this is one of the spots where calling a pro can save a lot of hassle.
Step 5: Lay the Fabric and Gravel
Line the trench with geotextile fabric. This fabric keeps soil out of the gravel and pipe, preventing clogs over time. Leave enough overlap on the edges so you can fold it back over the top when finished.
Then, pour in a few inches of washed gravel to create a solid base before setting your pipe.
Step 6: Install the Drain Pipe
Place your perforated pipe on top of the gravel with the holes facing down. This allows water to seep into the pipe from below and flow out the end. Make sure the pipe maintains a consistent slope and doesn’t have any high or low spots that could trap water.
Once it’s in place, cover the pipe with more gravel until it’s about 4-6 inches from the top of the trench. Fold the fabric edges over the gravel to create a barrier that keeps sediment out but still allows water to pass through.
Step 7: Backfill and Finish
Backfill the trench with 4-6 inches of topsoil or sod to match the surrounding yard. Most grass roots grow in these depths. In some cases, homeowners choose to leave the gravel exposed for better drainage or to create a decorative rock channel.
At this point, test the drain by running water into the start of the system. If everything slopes properly, you should see steady flow out the discharge end.
DIY vs. Hiring a Professional
A French drain might sound like a weekend project, but the reality is that it’s often a multi-day job involving heavy digging, precise grading, and lots of cleanup. It’s also easy to underestimate the amount of gravel or pipe you’ll need — or how quickly small errors in slope can cause the system to fail.
Most professionally installed French drains cost between $1,500 and $10,000, depending on the size of the system, soil type, and complexity. While that may sound like a lot, it includes the right equipment, materials, and expertise to ensure your drainage system actually works long-term.
Need Help with a French Drain?
If you’ve tried everything and water still won’t stay away, get in touch with us even for quick questions or help over the phone at no cost to you. We can evaluate your property, identify the real cause of the drainage issue, and design a permanent solution — whether that’s a French drain, grading adjustment, or a combination of both.
French Drain Install:
For this drain we had a customer whose basement was flooding every year. We installed a 200 foot drain at the base of a hill surrounding his house and tied it into an existing culvert. In this photo we are checking depths and lengths of pipe before wrapping with fabric. This system will also be fully covered in river rock and not topsoil! The depth was 18 inches and 2 feet wide to allow a lot of water to fill up to the pipe and then be carried away.
What It Takes (and Costs) to Build a Shed Pad That Lasts
Adding a shed to your property is a great way to create extra storage or workspace — but before you can place it, you’ll need a solid, level foundation. Whether you’re installing a Tuff Shed or any other prefab structure, the shed pad is what determines how long your shed will last. Here’s what goes into building one the right way, and what it typically costs.
Step 1: Choosing the Location
Start by picking a spot that’s accessible and not prone to standing water. Keep in mind that the pad should sit slightly higher than the surrounding ground to promote drainage. Avoid areas near large trees where roots could shift the foundation over time.
If your property is uneven, you may need to cut and fill soil or build a small retaining wall to create a level area — especially on sloped yards. These steps add time and cost but are crucial for keeping your shed stable.
Step 2: Determining the Size of Your Shed Pad
The rule of thumb is to make your pad at least 2 feet larger on all sides than the shed itself. For example, if you’re installing a 10×12 shed, your pad should measure around 14×16 feet. This extra space provides a clean, dry perimeter for water runoff and easier maintenance access.
Step 3: Excavation and Leveling
Once the location and size are set, the area is excavated to remove grass, roots, and topsoil. The goal is to reach a firm, compacted base. On uneven terrain, this step often requires additional grading or small retaining walls made from blocks, timber, or concrete to hold back soil and keep the pad level.
Proper leveling is critical — even a few inches of difference can cause doors to stick or water to pool under the shed.
Step 4: Installing the Gravel Base
A quality shed pad uses a base of crushed rock or gravel that compacts tightly while still allowing drainage. The best materials are:
- 5/8” minus crushed rock – a common choice for solid compaction.
- 3/4” clean drain rock – works well for wet areas or when additional drainage is needed.
The gravel layer is typically 4 to 6 inches deep and must be compacted in layers using a plate compactor. Skipping compaction or using the wrong material can lead to settling and uneven support over time.
Step 5: Drainage Considerations
If the ideal location for your shed is at the base of a hill you may want to think about running a simple French drain around the base to redirect water away from the pad to reduce the chances of settling over time. If leveling the pad requires a retaining wall, it would be a good idea to install drainage behind the wall to.
Step 6: Adding a Ramp for Easy Access
If you plan to store lawn mowers, ATVs, or other equipment inside, include a ramp in your design. A simple gravel or timber ramp makes loading easier and prevents wear on the shed’s threshold. Ideally, the ramp should extend at least 3 to 4 feet from the door with a gradual slope.
What Does a Shed Pad Cost?
Costs vary depending on site conditions, size, and the amount of excavation required, but most shed pads fall between $2,000 and $6,000. On flat land with minimal grading, costs stay on the lower end. For uneven terrain that requires retaining walls, drainage work, or extra gravel, costs can rise to $8,000 or more.
Here’s a general breakdown:
- Small shed pad (up to 10×12) – $2,000–$3,000
- Medium pad (12×16) – $3,500–$5,000
- Large pad or sloped lot – $5,000–$8,000+
Professional vs. DIY
If your property is perfectly flat and you’re comfortable operating a plate compactor, a DIY shed pad can be done over a weekend. But for most homeowners, challenges like grading, compaction, drainage, and access make it worth hiring a professional. A poorly built pad can lead to water damage, settling, or costly foundation issues down the road.
Ready to Build Your Shed Pad?
If you’re planning a Tough Shed or similar structure, contact us for a site evaluation and quote. We’ll handle everything — from leveling and drainage to compaction and finishing — so your shed has the solid, long-lasting foundation it deserves.
Build it once, build it right — and your shed will last for decades.
